Scaling Sinai
Discover the offerings of Sharm El Sheikh, a remarkable domain of jagged desert mountains fronted by the crystal clear water of the Red Sea.
Located on the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, Sharm El Sheikh was but a fishing village just over four decades ago. Today, this port and resort town is home to over 70,000 and represents a jewel on the Egyptian tourist map. Known for its remote desert mountain range and true-blue waters of the Red Sea, it is a paradise for those looking to soak in the sun by the beach, to explore the world below sea-level or an awe-inspiring escape into mountainous desert landscape that stretches out as far as the eye can see.
This series of photographs begins 500 kilometres away on an overnight bus in Cairo and concludes in the midday shadows cast by the remnant of a biblical past. It offers a glimpse of Sharm’s enduring charm – one seemingly worlds apart from the urban rumble of Egypt’s greater cities.
En-route: The 8-hour journey along the Ras Sedr–El Tor Road is especially scenic when taken during the day for it runs along the Gulf of Suez a busy shipping route that connects the Mediterranean Ocean to the Red Sea and Indian Ocean. The overnight bus remains a more practical option for those who want to save time. Security presence is heavy in the Sinai Peninsula, with at least four to five military checkpoints between Cairo and Sharm. Pictured here is a passenger awaiting his bus at a stop just off central Cairo.
Due to its international appeal, this resort has no shortage of food and beverage options – most of which are centred along Naama Bay. Apart from a multitude of shopping options, this commercialised stretch offers fresh seafood and carries familiar names such as TGI Friday’s, Pizza Hut and Hard Rock Café. Bars and clubs are aplenty for those in search of late night fun. One can also enjoy a quintessential Egyptian pastime: a cup of Turkish coffee coupled with shisha by the sidewalk.
Most businesses in and around Naama Bay open only in the afternoon, but tour operators by the waterfront start early, luring tourists into enjoying their morning and rest of the day by the sea – and for good reason. The beaches, waters and coral reefs of Sharm are the driving forces behind the town’s economy and are well taken care of. Pictured here are tourists heading out on boat trips, waiting for their respective tour operators.
Heading out to sea: Contrary to what its name suggests, the Red Sea - an extension of the Indian Ocean - is very much blue in appearance. It is accessible from three fronts: via the Gulf of Aden in the south, the Middle Eastern countries along the Gulf of Aqaba and through the Gulf of Suez in the north which connects to the Mediterranean. Pictured here in the backdrop is the arid expanse of the Sinai Peninsula.
Sharm owes much of its world acclaim to the Red Sea’s rich and diverse ecosystem: approximately 2000 kilometres of coral reef graces its coastline, with over 1200 recorded species of fish. Given the shallowness of its immediate shoreline, Sharm’s enchanting fringing reefs are also highly accessible even for the casual tourist to snorkel. Shipwrecks await the more adventurous. Here, a diving instructor orientates a first-timer before the descend.
One can enjoy a 15-minute, introductory dive for around 250 Egyptian Pounds (approx. MYR60) – a small sum considering the nature of this opportunity. While there are a few points to bear in mind concerning equipment and underwater communication, the experience is facilitated by an experienced diver throughout. The option to purchase footage of the dive is also made available, as evidenced by this photograph.
“A poncho for you sir? Gloves? Good price. It’s very cold up there”, repeated the swarming pedlars as we got off the bus near the city of Saint Catherine to begin our midnight ascent of Mount Sinai. Groups are accompanied by local Bedouin guides for apart from the stars and moonlit skies, the trail is barely visible in the dark. With temperatures hovering below 10°C, the climb started on a cold note but the prospect of witnessing daybreak from this hallowed peak did enough to stoke our inner fire.
According to the Scripture, it was on this mount of solid rock that Moses received the Ten Commandments. It is also revered by Muslims and Jews for the same reason. Mount Sinai attracts people from all over the world; the young and the old, the tourist and the pilgrim. Apart from offering visitors a glimpse into biblical days, there are few better ways to experience the breathtaking vastness of this mountainous region. Here, a fellow trekker awaits his overpriced cup of tea at one of the many butane-lit rest stops along the trail.
Shepherding a van full of tourists with varying levels of fitness on an 8-hour trek requires patience, experience and stamina. Mohamed does this on a daily basis - sometimes twice a day. “Alibaba”, he hollers, ensuring no one gets left behind while navigating the narrow rocky incline in the midst of other groups. We holler in return. Bundled up beside him here (in rented blankets) are tired, cold climbers. This photograph was taken at the last stop along the trail, approximately 20 minutes from the summit.
While there is an alternative to start the ascent during midday in time for sunset, most treks push off at night to catch the break of dawn. Needless to say, the view from the top – especially those fleeting moments before the sun pierces the horizon – is priceless and makes the rocky climb well worth it. One can also catch a glimpse of Mount Catherine in the distance, Egypt’s highest mountain with an elevation of 2,629m. The summit of Mount Sinai stands at 2,285m.
The descent begins an hour after sunrise. By then, one can already feel the sun’s unforgiving gaze, made more intense given the altitude. The skies are often clear and rain is scarce throughout the year. But daybreak brings the jagged and rocky expanse of the area into light - a stark contrast to the climb, when the stars shine bright and only the silhouettes of granite formations tower overhead. A complete lack of greenery punctuates the otherworldly charm of the place.
Back on lower-ground: A group of Indian tourists linger outside the Monastery of Saint Catherine at the foot of Mount Sinai. This holy place - which bears a fortress-like a façade – is said to be located where God appeared to Moses by the Burning Bush. Its history can be traced back to over seventeen centuries, predating the divisions of the Christian world.
